Episode 11: Bare Bones Self-Rescue

May 14th, 2009 · 1 Comment

Occasionally rock climbers and canyoneers are faced with the prospect of self-rescue. That is, the participant has encountered a situation where they cannot continue - the rope is too short, the rope is damaged, the rope is severed, etc… and they must ascend the rope to rescue themselves from that situation.

Ideally, if self-rescue is happening, you are equipped with a great setup of mechanical ascenders, foot loop of some sort, multiple chains, runners, carabiners, etc… that are all within reach of you. But, assuming you don’t have any of those items on your person, self-rescue can appear to be a daunting task.

However, if you possess a chain of some sort, an autoblock, and a rappel device you have all the tools you need to ascend back up your rope. In this technique tip we are just ascending on one rope, but the technique holds true for double rope ascensions as well.

If you practice the described technique please do so in as controlled an environment as possible. If you mis-rig this system you may fall and injure or kill yourself. Furthermore if you are unable to lock off your progress and your friction hitch fails you may also fall and injure or kill yourself. Regardless of the tools, self rescue is serious business and deserves some serious training.

Check out all the self-rescue training options at www.alpinets.com/canyoneering.html and www.alpinets.com/rockclimbing.html.

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